MEN'S AND WOMEN'S
Max Mara
A house can be known for one garment and be the stronger for it. At Max Mara that garment is the coat, and above all the 101801, a camel-coloured wool and cashmere overcoat the Italian house has spent decades refining rather than replacing. Its detail is borrowed from men's tailoring, down to the fine puntino stitching, and the rest of the wardrobe is arranged around it.
That means fabric leads. Camel hair and cashmere set the tone, joined by wool crepe, gabardine and knitwear in the same restrained register, while colour holds close to camel, ivory, black and grey so pieces stack without argument. Tailoring is generous rather than fitted, with a shoulder that sits slightly wide and a belt used to suggest a waist rather than enforce one.
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