Balenciaga

The women's line is where the house's taste for proportion is easiest to read. A blazer is cut to curve in at the waist and round at the shoulder; a parka or a puffer does the opposite and swallows the frame whole. Between those two poles sit fluid silk shirting, corseted evening tops, pleated mini dresses and long ribbed knits that cling where the outerwear billows.

Footwear follows the clothes rather than apologising for them. Track sandals and runners sit on thick moulded soles built to be seen under a hem, and denim runs from rigid and frayed to washed, quilted and heavy. It is a wardrobe that expects one loud proportion per outfit and keeps everything around it deliberately plain.