John Varvatos

Nothing here asks to be kept for best. This is the men's side of an American menswear house built on a rock aesthetic, and the clothes are made to be worn hard: jackets that loosen, boots that mark, knits that settle into shape rather than hold one. Most of it looks better a season in than it does on the hanger.

Outerwear does the heavy lifting, in treated leathers and heavier cottons, with tailoring underneath cut lean and lightly built through the shoulder so a jacket layers instead of dominating. Knitwear and shirting run long and narrow, boots and belts carry the same antiqued hardware, and the colour range stays dark and muted, which is what lets several different materials share one outfit without pulling against each other.