Miu Miu

Nothing here is trying to look grown-up, and that is exactly the point. The women's world at Miu Miu runs on garments borrowed from uniforms and dressing-up boxes — the pleated skirt cut short, the fine-gauge cardigan, the flat shoe with a ribbon — made to a standard that has nothing casual about it.

Leather does the heavy lifting on the accessory side, quilted into matelassé panels that keep a bag soft in the hand and light on the shoulder, the Wander being the shape to know. Footwear stays low and close, ballet flats first, the collar drawn in by its ties. Knitwear, embellishment and small logo lettering finish things off, and the balance the house is known for holds: Italian making underneath, an unbothered attitude on top.