Jacquemus

Each piece is built around a single gesture: a strap that ties instead of buckling, a bodice cut on one shoulder, a skirt that wraps and knots at the hip. Jacquemus womenswear works by stripping out everything that would compete with that one move, which is why the clothes photograph as plainly as they do.

Material supplies the warmth the silhouettes leave out: linen, raffia, crochet and open knit set against smooth leather and bleached cotton. Bags are scaled to the occasion rather than to what they hold, from a top handle that carries almost nothing to shoulder and crossbody shapes built for a full day. Footwear keeps the same flat, sculptural line: squared toes, carved heels, a sandal held by a single strap. Nothing is fussy; it has simply been edited.