Versace

Two instincts run through the men's side and they pull in opposite directions, which is precisely the point. One is tailoring cut lean and sharp, with narrow lapels, a high armhole and a jacket that follows the torso. The other is the printed silk shirt, worn open, carrying a baroque or Greek-key pattern at a scale that leaves no room for doubt. The house has always been happy to let a man wear both at once.

The rest follows that logic. Knitwear runs jacquard borders rather than plain ribs, denim and jersey take logo graphics, and outerwear leans on leather. Sneakers are built chunky with moulded emblems on the sole, dress shoes and belts carry the Medusa as hardware, and bags repeat the Greca in embossed relief.