Dries Van Noten

A man's wardrobe here is built around one loud element and a lot of quiet holding it in place. The printed shirt is usually the loud part — florals and palm prints redrawn at odd scales, painterly grounds, patterns that would look at home framed — and it is set against pieces cut soft and roomy, in cloth chosen to hang rather than hold.

The tailoring is the Antwerp house's own idea of a jacket: shoulders that sit rather than assert, a straight body, nothing engineered to hold a shape you don't have. That ease is what lets the fabric register — a cotton poplin reads as cotton poplin, not as structure — and it is why a shirt and a jacket from different seasons go on working together instead of dating as a single look.