Tod's

Softness is the whole proposition in Tod's womenswear, and it is engineered rather than assumed. Leathers are chosen for how they give: a driving moccasin that folds to the shape of the foot as it is worn, a flat with almost nothing between sole and floor, a bag whose hammered hide slumps gently rather than standing to attention. Structure is kept to the minimum the shape actually needs to hold.

That runs from the pebbled Gommino sole through flats, loafers and boots into the leather goods, where the T Timeless shapes hang a metal T over hammered grain, with handles short enough to carry in the hand and a strap that lifts away. Colour stays close to the leather itself, in tan, cream, chocolate and black, and hardware is small and matte or lightly polished. The interest sits in grain, edge finishing, and how a piece looks after a year of being carried.