MM6 Maison Margiela

Proportion is the tool MM6 reaches for first in womenswear. A garment starts from something entirely familiar — a trench, a poplin shirt, a knit vest, a bomber — and is then enlarged, shortened, cut open or hung from the wrong point until the shape reads as new while the reference stays legible. The cloth is usually plain, because the pattern is where all of the work has gone.

Across the women's range that means oversized tailoring and outerwear, shirting reworked into dresses, distorted knitwear, and denim cut with its seams moved off the expected line. Accessories run to the folded triangular Japanese bag and its variations, while footwear keeps uppers plain and puts the interest into the sole. Colour holds mostly to black, white, grey and washed neutrals, and the circled 6 is often the only marking a piece carries.