WOMEN'S
Jean Paul Gaultier
The house made its name by putting underwear on the outside and refusing to apologise for it. Corsetry is the centre of Jean Paul Gaultier womenswear — boned bodices, laced panels, structured and conical cups, seams that map the torso — worn as a top on its own, built into a dress, or printed onto fabric so the shape appears without the structure.
Around that centre, the stripe does the rest of the talking. Marinière bands run across fine knits, mesh layers and jersey dresses, sometimes knitted in and sometimes printed on so they warp with the seams. Trompe-l'œil takes over where the corsetry stops, drawing laces, tattoos and the body itself onto sheer fabric. Tailoring is cut sharp, then undercut by a slash or a panel that has no business being there. The palette holds to navy, ivory, black and flesh tones, which is what lets the shapes read at a glance.
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