Acne Studios

The women's collections are built on line and length. A skinny jean is cut with the rise pushed high so the leg reads longer; a slip dress in acetate-viscose crepe is hung from a single strap and left to fall; a trouser is relaxed through the thigh and then cropped short of the ankle so the shoe becomes part of the outfit. The garments are familiar; the geometry is not.

Fabric choice keeps it grounded. Cotton denim in flat steel washes, crepes that move without clinging, lightweight suitings that hold a crease — and nothing that waits for an occasion. Much of the womenswear is kept in a plain register of black, ivory and steel blue, so the shape of a piece is usually the first thing anyone registers about it.