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Issey Miyake>Pleats Please
The pleat here is the last step, not the first. Cloth is cut and sewn to a finished but oversized shape, then pressed under heat until the folds are permanently set — the reverse of the usual order, and the reason the pleating runs with the seams instead of fighting them. What comes out is light, springy and dimensional, and it holds its ridges through wear and washing rather than relaxing out of them.
Everything else follows from that decision. Pieces rarely need zips or fastenings, because the pleats supply the give; they travel crushed into a bag and come out unchanged; they move with the body instead of hanging off it. Colour runs from flat black to the saturated brights the fabric takes so well, and the shapes stay plain — a straight tunic, a wide trouser, a skirt that opens like a fan — since the surface is already doing the work.
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