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Gabriela Hearst
Material is chosen first here, and the rest of the design follows from it. Cashmere, merino, silk and leather are picked for how they behave after a few years rather than how they read in a single season, and the cutting stays clean enough to let the cloth carry the garment.
That same logic reaches the accessories and the shoes, where heel height and strap width are settled by proportion rather than ornament, and nothing is applied that the leather cannot justify. Where a fibre comes from is treated as part of the brief rather than a footnote to it, which is one of the things the label is recognised for. Pieces read quietly and hold their shape.
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