Norma Kamali

Coverage here is a dial, not a fixed setting. Rows of shirring gather the cloth down the body of a Norma Kamali dress or swimsuit, so the fabric can be worked up for less coverage or drawn down for more, which is why one silhouette tends to fit more than one shape of body. The elastic does the sizing that a zip and a set of darts would otherwise have to do.

The women's rail runs from there. Shirred and draped jersey — fishtail gowns, one-shoulder columns, strapless dresses cut to the knee — sits alongside turtleneck tops and bodysuits, while blazers, shawl-collar coats and the quilted Sleeping Bag Coat take the colder half of the year. Almost all of it travels well: the knits fold small, shed creases and return to their line once they are on.