MEN'S
Roger Vivier
The men's selection takes the house's oldest idea — a large squared buckle worn as ornament — and applies it to shoes that get walked in. It works because the buckle was never a woman's detail to begin with: the original was drawn from an eighteenth-century court shoe, from a period when a buckle was treated as jewellery for a man's foot.
In practice that means loafers and moccasins in leather, suede, velvet and patent, the hardware oversized in gold or dark metal against a clean upper. Trainers sit alongside them, low and tonal, with the house's arched Choc form carved into the sole rather than announced on the side. The palette is disciplined — black, navy, chocolate, the occasional deep jewel tone in velvet — so the metal stays the only loud thing.
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