MEN'S
Maison Margiela
Menswear here is cut for weight and volume before anything else. Jackets often sit wide through the shoulder and long through the body, trousers break low, and knitwear is scaled up rather than trimmed down, so proportion does the work a print or a logo would do elsewhere. The Paris house also treats the making of a garment as something to show rather than tidy away: facings turn outward, shoulders are left raw, and hems finish as though the piece were caught mid-construction.
Footwear is the loudest part of the men's offer. The Tabi split toe, adapted from a Japanese work shoe, reads the same whether it lands on a boot, a loafer or a sandal. Around it the vocabulary stays steady: leathers painted, treated and deliberately marked, denim worked rather than finished clean, knitwear reassembled from the parts of other knits.
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