MEN'S
Jil Sander
Menswear here is judged the way a tailor judges it: shoulder, length, break. Jil Sander reads a knit or a coat by the same measures it reads a jacket, which is why the pieces sit together without anyone having to think about it — nothing arrives carrying a pattern or a badge that the rest of an outfit has to work around.
Cloth carries the register. A suiting wool is chosen for how it falls rather than how it photographs, a knit for the gauge that keeps its shape through a season, an outer fabric for the weight that squares a shoulder without padding it. Finishing stays deliberately quiet, with closures set flush and seams placed to shape rather than to show, so what identifies a piece is its proportion and its hand rather than anything printed on it.
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