MEN'S
Jean Paul Gaultier
Menswear is where the house pushed hardest. Jean Paul Gaultier put men in skirts and in corsetry, dressed them in sailor stripes and tattoo prints, and cut a suit properly only to interrupt it — the point being that a masculine wardrobe is a costume like any other, and one worth arguing with.
The pieces themselves are direct. Striped marinière knits and jerseys anchor the range, and outerwear borrows from naval and military dress without tipping over into fancy dress. Trompe-l'œil tops print tattooed skin, laces or musculature onto sheer mesh, so the fabric reads as a body from any distance. Denim is cut hard; tailoring is cut properly and then interrupted. Navy, ivory, black and indigo do most of the work, with a flash of skin tone wherever a print asks for it.
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