Balmain

Menswear here is cut like armour and finished like jewellery. The shoulder is squared and built up, the body follows close beneath it, and the line stays short and clean, so a jacket declares its construction before you notice any logo. Knitwear and outerwear are drawn on the same frame.

Detail carries the rest. Buttons are metal, set in gold or silver tone and usually branded rather than plain; the PB monogram runs across knitwear and hardware; and studs, chains and embroidery appear on jackets and footwear where a plainer label would leave the surface alone. Shoes and accessories are built on that same hardware language, which is why a Balmain belt or boot rarely looks borrowed from somewhere else.