Baldinini

A shoemaker's habits carry into the coats. Panels are cut and joined with the same attention to how an edge sits that a workshop gives a welt, so a collar rolls where it should and a hem hangs straight without needing weight to force it into line.

The cloth does the rest. Wool and cashmere are used in doubled constructions that give warmth without bulk, and the outerwear is drawn to sit over a jacket rather than compete with one. Colour keeps to the practical end, greys and camels and blacks, with the interest held in the layering and the finish. The house came out of the Romagna shoemaking district, and menswear here still reads like something made by people who think in leather first.