MEN'S AND WOMEN'S
Jil Sander
Take everything away and what remains has to be perfect. That is the discipline this German house has held to since its Hamburg beginnings: no print doing the job of a seam, no hardware apologising for a proportion, just line, volume and the quality of the cloth carrying the whole garment.
What that looks like on the rail is a wardrobe judged on construction. Shoulders are cut to hold their own shape, cloth is chosen heavy enough to hang rather than drape, and seams are placed to shape a trouser or a skirt rather than to decorate it. Knits come in gauges dense enough to hold their shape, shirting stays plain, and the leather goods follow the same rule — a shoulder bag whose knotted strap is the only detail on it, there because it fastens something rather than because it was applied afterwards.
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