MEN'S AND WOMEN'S
Christian Dior
One silhouette reorganised how a woman's jacket and skirt were cut, and the house has been living off it and arguing with it ever since. The New Look drew the waist in and let the skirt fall full and long, and the Bar jacket that carried it, soft-shouldered and sharply nipped before flaring over the hip, is still the shape everything at Christian Dior is measured against.
Away from tailoring the house speaks in motifs. Cannage, the woven quilting drawn from Napoleon III caned chairs, turns up on bags and small leather goods, and the Saddle's curved body has outlasted the era that made it famous. Shoes and accessories carry the same discipline as the clothes, with careful construction, restrained hardware, and decoration used sparingly enough to still count for something.
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