MEN'S AND WOMEN'S
Balmain
Everything at Balmain starts at the shoulder. The Paris house, founded in 1945, built its reputation on construction that holds a shape rather than following the body, and the version it works today draws a squared, built-up shoulder that narrows hard to the waist. Tailoring is where that line is clearest, but the same architecture turns up in a knit, a jacket and a coat.
Ornament carries equal weight. The six-button double-breasted blazer is a house signature, its metal buttons doing as much work as the lapel; embroidery, beading and crystal are set across jackets and dresses rather than kept to a trim; and the PB monogram runs through knitwear, hardware and accessories, most often jacquard-woven or intarsia-knitted into the cloth. Read a piece by its shoulder line and its buttons before anything else.
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